View from Shilt 

It was late march when we started planning for a Himalayan trek. There were few places but we wanted to try something different. Hence when Tirthan Valley & Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP) was mentioned everyone readily agreed over the plan. When we researched further we also came to know about indigenous birds like Monals, Western Tragopan etc.  The Western Tragopan was my reason to hike in GHNP.

The suggested itinerary was as follows:

Day 1: Reaching Delhi & further travel towards Manali

Day 2: Getting down at Aut & moving head to Gushaini / Nagini for homestay.

Day 3: Hiking to Rolla Campsite (11Km, rather a easy walk)

Day 4: Trek to Shilt Campsite (5 Km, extremely steep)

Day 5: Trek to Ghuntaro via Rakhundi Top (13 Km, steep climb & strenuous walk)

Day 6: Trek to Dhel Campsite (12 Km, steep climb & Descent with Strenuous walk)

Day 7: Rest Day at Dhel

Day 8: Trek to Lapah (9 Km, Steep descent & strenuous walk)

Day 9: Trek to Neuli (8 Km, moderate hike), overnight at Manali Hotel

Day 10: Manali site seeing & Manali to Delhi by overnight bus

Day 11: Depart to Pune.

This plan was finalized in no time & bookings were done. The group consisted of 3 singles and two families on sizes 3 & 4 each which also meant we had 3 kids on the block. We kept practicing at Sinhgad regularly and it was departure day in no time. 

Everybody gathered at Delhi and we caught bus to Manali on afternoon of 19 May 2015. 

It was about 7 AM when we got down at Aut and the taxis were waiting for our pick up. The serene Himalayas were so inviting that I wanted to walk all the way to Nagini village but slept in the taxi. 

As rest of the day was free, we went to the banks Tirthan River which were right opposite to homestay. later that day, we went to a nearby waterfall. This was one beautiful site. It reminded of movie Avatar. Soon we were back at the homestay and sorted our backpacks for the adventure beginning next day. I had decided not to use services of the porter. So I left my extra clothes in a bag and packed rest of the stuff for leaving behind.

Next day post breakfast, we were dropped at Gushaini Village, which is the starting point of the trek. We all were pretty much excited. We started walking towards to Rolla Campus (Altitude 2100 M) at about 11:30 in the morning. The path was very much like a regular Himalayan National Park. At about 3:30 we entered through the gates of the Great Himalayan National Park and at about 5:30 we were at Rolla Campsite.

View from Tent at Shilt 

Today, we began walking at about 9:30 and the climb was too steep. The distance was much less then yesterday but the climb was tough. There was hardly any place where one could actually rest to relax their feet. Thankfully distance wasn’t much and we reached the Shilt campsite (Altitude 3100 M) at about 2 PM. The view from the tent was awesome. The Tirthan Peak & its adjacent peaks were visible from the mountain range.

The third day of our trek began quite early and we started off at about 8:30. Today we were to 

summit Rakhundi and descend to Ghuntaro. Rakhundi Top is at about 4100 M & Ghuntaro is at an altitude of 3400 M. The trek involved mostly uphill walking. I had couple of Déjà vu moments from my previous treks. This one day of this trek was the killer! We all pushed ourselves way beyond our limits & comfort zones. The walk was never ending. By the time we reached Ghuntaro it was about 6:30 pm and everyone was exhausted and hungry.

At about dinner time, the leader made an announcement that we would be resting at Ghuntaro for another day and return the same way we started. This was a disappointing yet right decision as the climb from Ghuntaro to Dhel was more difficult and strenuous. The weather went bad in night and it snowed.

The campsite was located on the slope of a hill within the area of barely some plain. It was probably the most beautiful campsite with rhododendrons surrounding it.

We sat back in our dining tent and chatted. Some of the members went for a walk further towards Dhel in the afternoon.

So after one day rest at Ghuntaro, we again made our way to Rakhundi and from there to Shilt. It was a pleasant walk but walking downhill made it difficult. Again at Shilt, it felt like being home. Again it rained entire night.

The Himalayan Pit Viper

Next day we decided to walk ahead of Rolla and camp at the gates of GHNP. We were hurrying off when the trek manager Roshan Singh spotted a snake which he mentioned as a Viper. We all took few photos and marched further. At Rolla, we took a good halt for lunch and then into the river.

Till Rolla, it was descent and then almost a plain walk. At about 4 pm, that day we reached the Gates of GHNP. The last member walked in and the rains started as if they were waiting for us to reach the shelters. Here we enjoyed campfire and the staff also sang some local songs for us. It was a pleasant evening.

Next day in the morning, we trekked to Gushaini Village and then to Manali with a quick stopover at Nagini to pick up our bags.

The trekking in Tirthan Valley is not so popular even now hence this part of forest is more clean and peaceful and away from the clutters of commercialization. There are very few operators in this valley and the staff they have excellent staff. We always felt especially cared for and the 9 year baby on our trek was looked after very well. There are many reasons why I would definitely go back to Tirthan and the foremost being quest of Western Tragopan.

27 March 2015

We had planned to leave early, but the bed was comfortable that I just couldnt resist sleeping longer. Finally at about 9, we checked out and drove off to Aihole.

Aihole is barely 44 kms from Badami and the road is small tar road with pretty much less traffic. It was about 10 when we reached there.

First thing we saw was a house like structure on the left side of the road. The sign read "Huchchiappa Gudi". We left our car near the entrance and entered the well

cared ruins. There is no idol inside the temple. When we were descending the steps, we saw another structure towards our right side, we planned to there after exploring this one.

The temples of Aihole are grouped as Konthi, Tryambakeshwara, Galaganatha and Jain Basadis.

Huchichiappa Gudi is a small structure so quickly we moved to the next ruins. When we were entering these ruins, we saw another one a bit further, so it was next in line and another one even more further... Soon I realized that there is a series of ruins and the exploration is going to take long time. in fact it was going to be much more than what I had anticipated. 

We went around for quiet sometime and then drove off to Lad Khan Temple. This complex, again under ASI is well maintained facility. There are number of ruins here namely, Durga Temple, Ladkhan Temple etc.

We had cane juice before entering here. It is very important to keep yourself hydrated on a sunny day like this one. 

Durga Temple

The Durga Temple and Ladkhan temple, both are architectural wonders. My friend is an architect and she kept mentioning about both these temples. Apart from these two the complex also houses a well and a few other temples. It was 1:30 when I checked my watch and we decided to leave immediately as we needed to reach Pune by day end.

Google counted the distance as 458KM from Aihole to my place. However, since the highways are of superb quality we were much sure that we will cover the distance.

The Rath at Kudal Sangam

We were told to have lunch at Kudal Sangam. Kudal Sangam is a confluence of two rivers, Krishna and Malaprabha. We went round and round before we could find Kamat. Kamat Served yet another tasty meal and we drove off towards Vijapur.

The road... I tell you... "it is amazing" is only an ordinary description. I am sad that I was not driving a SUV but I am happy that my car is in awesome condition even at 14.

In no time, we were passing from the outskirts of Bijapur. The Gol Ghumbaz marked the skyline of the city. I almost coerced my buddy to visit the monument. Being an architect, She was also fascinated by the building yet was doing her best to avoid this.

Near Bijapur

Finally we were in the parking and she almost warned me to leave at the earliest. The people were acting crazy and shouting on top of their voices and the entire place felt like a mental institution. Our guide was also upset as his demonstrations were hampered by the public around. He suggested exploring the horizon for some time. Soon it was 6 PM and most of the people left. Now, he started his demonstrations all over again. I was amazed by this engineering marvel. The building is constructed in such a way that sound as small as palms being rubbed against each other is also heard all over the place. I am still amazed by this. 

Gol Ghumbaz

It was closure time and we were asked to leave. Apart from Gol Ghumbaz. I wanted to visit the cannon Malika-E-Maidan. Since it was already sundown, we had to trash that idea and move ahead.

Jnana Prabodhini Bhavan

We realized that it would be a daring idea to drive to Pune late in night on a highway and we decided not to take chances. So per discussions, we decided to stay at our Alma Mater - Jnana Prabodhini's Solapur Branch. I have no words to describe the feeling. I was also elevated by idea of attending Upasana next morning.

We had reached late and the kitchen was left open only for us to have dinner. The lovely food was kept for us on the table. We were about to serve ourselves when Amol dada and another guy came over to serve the food. They made us comfortable like being at home. We hurried back to the room, put up all gadgets on charging and slept early as we wanted to attend Upasana next morning.

Jnana Prabodhini is the foundation of my soul and character, an eternal source of strength. I draw most of my power from the firm principles it has instilled in me. Missing Upasana when everything was on my side would have been the greatest sin of my life.

28 March 2015:

It was about 5:00 AM when we woke up. Both of us rushed to the bathroom and quickly got ready for Upasana.

Upasana Mandir

Everyone associated with JnanaPrabodhini attends Upasana. Upasana is way of meditation. During the school days, I never understood the importance of this process however life's various experiences taught me the importance.

So, at sharp 6:15 AM we were at the Upasana Mandir. The Upasana Mandir resembled very much like the one at the Pune Building. Humming the same old mantras, I could feel the positivity blooming inside me. The experience was beyond words. All I can say here is, it felt like a homecoming of a reincarnated soul.

Near Pune

 At 7, we were back on the highway. I am really impressed with the quality of the roads. Hats off to the unknown people who all constructed those roads.

We made handful pit stops before reaching my place at about 12:30.

Badami was on my bucket list for long time.

In July 2011, during my Hampi trip, I had tried to go visit this town but time had played major role then.

As I have vowed, this year is going to be the year of travels and fulfilling my dreams, Badami topped the list.

There wasn't much of a prologue before this trip. I asked some of my friends and two of them agreed to join in.

However, due to personal commitments Deshmukh kaka backed out at the eleventh hour. My car is pretty old (14 years plus) now hence I was worried if it could sustain long distance hauls of this trip. These were the only two hassles I saw on the eve of the trip.

25 March 2015

It was 5:45 AM of 25 March 2015; we left my place and drove on NH4. There wasn't much rush in those early hours and we covered good distance before halting for a quick pit stop. Kamat Hotel near Satara served tasty Idli - Chutney for breakfast. (They also had a black female Labrador <3)

The road till we pass Satara is ok ok types but ahead of Satara you get a feeling as if you are driving in heaven. Not only the condition of road is good but the both

The banks of the roads are decorated with trees to soothe your eyes. I was driving at 110 km per hour when we crossed Nipani and entered Karnataka. Now we had to slow down as it was time to explore the interiors of North Karnataka on our way to Badami.

I had made a list of towns we would pass through hence the problem of GPS fail did not trouble us much. We did another small pit stop of Cane Juice at Sankeshwar. The roads were mostly empty and we were in Badami at about 4:15 PM. At about 4:30 we checked in at Hotel Rajsangam bang opposite to Bus Station. 

First thing after check in was to refuel ourselves and freshening up. We went back to exploring the town on foot at about 5:15.

We were informed by the locals that the entry for the cave temples is closed at 5:30. So we knew we did not have much time on hand, so we headed towards the main village and market. After a detailed scrutiny of market we found one shop which sold us the sunscreen.

The residential area of the town is right behind the market. We decided to explore the day today life of this medieval town. The kids were playing on streets and many were amused by my camera. There were old ladies sitting outside their houses and discussing day today life. These ladies also were fascinated by camera and posed enthusiastically. 

One of these was a middle-aged lady who invited us to visit her house. The house is all made from local stones and is around 200 years old. She proudly showed us

around. Far away from touch of contemporary architecture this was definitely a soothing site. The cute young daughter of this lady was also named as Shraddha and we made an instant connection. We spent good half an hour at their place & learnt to say “we don't speak Kannada” in Kannada (Kannada barala), We exchanged our phone numbers and waved bye. 

We headed towards the gates of the Cave Temples. Here we met some of the locals waiting to enter the mosque for evening namaj. They informed us that the cave temples are opened at 6 AM and closed at 6 PM. They also showed us the way to the Ticket Counters. After this quick chat we made our way to the Agastyatirthya, a natural reservoir secured by stepped walls. We spent some time on the steps of the lake before returning to the hotel.

We had a good dinner at a local restaurant before surrendering to the sleep.

We had expected it to be cooler in night but the room was as good as hot oven and we were almost sleepless entire night.

The Town of Badami on the bank of Agastyatirthya

26 March 2015

We woke up pretty early, Had breakfast and moved out at about 8 AM. First stop was at Badami Cave Temples. The caves are situated in a hill known as South Fort. The entry to the South fort is closed. We were charged Rs. 5 per head and Rs. 25 per camera. The guy at the ticket window, The gate keeper and couple of locals cautioned us about the monkeys around.

There are 4 caves dedicated to Nataraja, Vishnu Avataaras, Paravasudeva and Jain Tirthankaras.

The Nataraja at the entrance of the cave

At the entrance of first cave a Nataraja is carved. This lifesized image has 9 left and 9 right hands and the permutaions of poses of both hands can lead to 81 dance poses. This was mind blowing. I salute the unknown artisan for this legacy. The cave also has a many other carvings including a Shivalinga inside the sanctum.

Cave two is cave of Vishnu Avataras. The walls and the ceilings proudly bear the images of 9 avataras of Lord Vishnu.

Cave three is the largest of the group houses giant sized images of Lord Vishnu seated on a coiled serpent. There are highly expressive figures of Vaishnava Pantha deities. This cave also has an inscription indicating that the images were carved by Mangalesha during the rein of Kirthivarman. The date is 578 AD.

The last cave, is dedicated to Jain tirthankaras, and is full if images like Parshwa, Suparshwa, Yakshas etc.

These days the caves are guarded by the watchmen who also double up as guides at times. 

I was missing my friend Jessicca and the beautiful memories of Hampi trip made me nostalgic.

When I was at Hampi, I had a simple point and shoot camera and this time I had rented a DSLR.  It was very first time I was handling DSLR all by

myself and was learning a lot new. As a back up I had requested my buddy to use my point and shoot camera too to avoid loss of images which she handled well. The long practice of Manual Mode on my point and shoot camera has helped me understand the aspects of photography. So, using the DSLR felt much like a cake walk, Except that SLR was way too heavy.

It was a pleasure to see the carvings. Any sensible mind would be spellbound by the creativity and hard word the artisans must have done.

Right at the first cave we met a huge group of people who tried to speak to us and with our newly acquired vocabulary we informed Kannada barala! Yet they insisted on being photographed by and with us. I was amused by their enthusiasm.

After cave temples, we headed to the Museum at the base of the North Fort. This small Museum is filled with artifacts from the ancient times.

Lower Shivalaya as seen from Upper Shivalaya

Now it was time for the much awaited North Fort. This fort is also managed by Archaeological Survey of India. The well cobbled path takes us to the Lower Shivalaya which may have been a Ganesha Temple. The upper Shivalaya is situated on the top of the North Fort and has carvings of stories from Mahabharata and ramayana. Upper Shivalaya and couple of other places in between. The only canon of fort still guards the town and The crowded town of Badami completes the landscape. The ruins are mesmerizing. One can only imagine about the rich culture and heritage of this corner of the world.

The not so well trodden path behind the fort brought us down near a cave at the backside of the fort and finally lead us to the Bhootnath Group of Temples.

 

The main Temple from the Group of Bhootnath Temples

The main temple of this group is constructed on a platform submersed in the lake. It must be quiet a site during monsoons. The security guard of this temple was a

friendly chap and he guarded us well against the monkeys and showed us around. Behind the Bhootnath Temple, There are 2 cave temples which we would have never known if he had never suggested.

One of these caves houses a sheshshayi Vishnu and another one houses a Buddha in meditation.

We were not satisfied but the hungry tummies insited the return to the modern civilization. When I checked the time it was already 2 PM. Fortunately we found a dugdug near the museum. The driver of this dugdug was friendly young lad and his dugdug was nicely decorated. He dropped us near the bus station and charged us a fair amount. It was a pleasure of not being looted in spite of the language barrier.

Now back in town, we had decent lunch at Hotel Royal Deluxe. Here we learnt to say Majjige, kannada word for buttermilk. I was wondering if my friend was tired and wanted to rest. (Also did not want to take a risk with the heat and was more cautious due to previous experiences of whims and fancies of co-travellers.) Thankfully, she insisted on going to Pattadakkal. I was relieved by her enthusiasm and was more than happy to drive off.

The drive from Badami to Pattadakal is mostly lonely with few villages along the road. We also passed by diversions to Banashankari & Mahakuta.  

 

Pattadakal Panorama

At about 4 PM we reached Pattadakal. On the way, she also noticed a few other famous sites. We ignored going there as we were more interested in seeing the Mallikarjun Group of Temples.

The temple complex consists of several temples built during 8th Century by a chalukyan kings. The site is well maintained by ASI and has an entry ticket of rs.5 per head.

 

They did not charge entry fee for cameras. It was an eye soothing site on a sunny afternoon with lots of trees and lawn. There are about 8 temples in the entire

complex. Virupaksha, Mallikarjuna, Sangameshwara, Galaganatha, Kashi Vishveshwara, Papanatha,  Jambulinga and Kadasiddheshwara Temple.

Additionally, there is a museum which had closed by the time we reached. ( We werent much keen to visit it either.) I was admiring the architecture and the craftsmanship of the temples and almost forgot to use camera. This is when my buddy reminded me that we were there not only to explore the lost treasures but also to learn photography. Then my camera started doing its work and went on to fill the memory card.

It was till 6 PM we were taking pictures when the guard informed us that it was about closure time. Post a quick rehydration session of coconut water, we drove back to Badami.

It was dark but the streets were still fairly crowded. We went on to explore more of this town. Once Back to the hotel, we requested the manager to switch on the AC as last night had been terrible due to hot weather.

We ordered Some delicious chinese for dinner, we chatted & copied photos & prepared for next day. Later we watched some cartoons and slept off.

As 2015 began, we listed all long weekends of the year. January's last weekend was the first. Vivek & Kaka were exploring options and I was determined to make best use of this weekend to complete my target of 24 forts for this year. So the ambitious plan came up.

The original plan was

Saturday: Sudhagad, Sarasgad & Stay at Surgad base

Sunday: Surgad, Awachitgad & Stay at Ghosalgad base

Monday: Ghosalgad, Talagad & Caves of Kuda Mandad & Back to Pune

This plan was going on in my mind for long time and I had shared with a few people as well. However it had never worked out. So it was the time to do the stuff.

Vivek & kaka accepted the plan happily & we were set. However, like all my plans, this one too needed changes at the last minute.

Vivek had to back out last minute due to personal reasons. I had traveled to Mumbai on Friday & returned late in the night hence the departure was delayed.

On Saturday afternoon, we (Kaka & I) left from his place and headed to Sudhagad. Runtime decision was made to stay overnight at Sudhagad & descend at the earliest in the morning.

We were at Sudhagad base: Thakurwadi at about 6 PM. We put on our hiking shoes & started off immediately.

3 village girls accompanied us till Ladder. It was getting dark fast now. The route ahead was a simple one & near the bastion Govt has constructed stairs now. Finally when we got to the top it was about 8:15.

 

When we reached to the Pant- Sachiv Wada a group was already there. They already had their dinner and had the fire still on. During the chat they mentioned that they had climbed down all the way from TelBails. We Cooked Maggie for dinner and slept off quick.

In the morning, the other group acted as hosts and served us tea. Later they descended towards Patachapur & we decided to explore Sudhagad. The Twin Pinnacles of TelBaila were dominating the skyline in the morning. It wass definitely a mesmerizing site.

The MahaDarwaja is a replica of the Great King's Capital's (Raigad) Mahadarwaja; hence we were keen to go there. We left our backpacks at Mami's place. It was a short walk from the Wada. And we explored many Hero Stones near the temple of Bhorai Mata.

The MahaDarawaja of Sudhagad is constructed in Gaumukhi (Circulatory) Format. I was thrilled to the core.

Soon we returned to Mami's place & requested her to prepare tea for us. She very happily served us tea. She is one of the most genuine people I have ever met in my life. Such a minimalistic approach... God if everyone becomes like her this world will become heaven in no time. Good things come to end soon & thus we had to bid adieu to her & return to base.

We decided to have lunch at Pali and climb Sarasgad & Skip Surgad.

It was about 2 PM when we reached Pali & found a place which serves very good homely food. We overate thus rested there for some time.

At about 3:30 PM we started climbing Sarasgad only to realize that we had underestimated its height. The steps of Sarasgad could be a subject of another blog post. After a quick discussion we decided to descend before it would be really dark.

Once at base we drove to Medha base village of Awachitgad. The vitthal temple there provided us shelter for the night and the people around the temple were again an example of hospitality. They helped us set up the chulha & also supplied some firewood. We prepared hakka noodles for dinner.

Next morning we set off for Awachitgad along with Mama from the nearby family.

Awachitgad is a small fort and still has most of the fortification intact. When we reached top the Forest department had already hoisted the tricolor. We sang our National Anthem before starting our descend.

Now it was time to explore Ghosalgad. A small kid of 5th standard did a job of guide for us and we went to the top in no time. This fort was probably built only as a watch tower. There isn’t much to explore here. Hence we descended. The entire task had taken only about 2 hours of our time.

Now we drove to Tala village. I had to surrender to nature & sit back in the car. Hence, kaka with company of a local guy went ahead to explore the fort. He returned in about an hour's time & we left for our homes.

Picture Credits: Shraddha Mehta & Sunil Deshmukh

Roomies at Room No 8, Left to Right, Neha, Mariko, Bijoli, Me, Amri, Ela and Jeny

The year would have begun on a sad note when I was still fuming from last month’s arguments and my behavior. But God had something better in mind! On the very first day, I went for a drive to
Mahabaleshwar. And travelling on very first day marked this year as Year of travelling for me.

Team Wanderers at Mengjai Hill

Then came first weekend and after a long time Team Wanderers had the first re-union at
Mengjai hill. And then came second weekend and I lived through another dream of climbing Harishachandragad via Nalichi wat. This route to get atop Harishachandragad mountain is said to be one of the toughest  routes. Highlight of this trek was also that I was only lady with a crowd of some 30 gentlemen.

Then I put stay as a metro was awaiting my arrival.

On February 1, 2014, I left for Kolkata for my rakhi-brother- Samrat’s wedding. Here I stayed with a typical Bengali family. Understanding the customs and day today life of a Bengali family was a very
enriching experience as human being. It only made me more Indian. Typically I only understood that love given is always returned triple fold. After a week spent entirely in suburbs of Kolkata I returned
home on 9 Feb 2014.

The top of Salher Fort

It was during the train journey back home, my inward journey began. This was the time to
grow as person and standing up for what I was. I was not happy with my job. It was killing me fast. There was a war going on between, mind and heart.

Meantime on the weekend of 15 - 16 February, I went for a trek to Maharashtra’s highest fort, Salher and other 4 forts ( Salota, Hargad, Mulher, Mora) near it.



During the war between mind and heart, I finally quit my job on 20th February. I utilized my time best in terms of hiking and exercising. Month of March saw me in mountains at Mangalgad and Rajgad(again!)

In April, I met my long lost friend Vasota and Babukada through Nageshwar. This was accompanied by Govalkot at Chiplun and Junglee Jaigad near Koyana Nagar.

I also went to Vasai fort and then another long time dream came true with a trek into Kundalika Valley.

This year also took me to a kid's camp at Koyana Backwaters as an outdoor expert. Once back home, Torana called me urgently before April ended.

Riki had been sick since this Torana trek. And thus I reduced my outings and treks. Yet, I went to Lonavala for searching route to a mountain and to Gorakhgad and Sandhan Valley.

With the Ferrari already sold, this Monk had only one journey to take, The journey to
center of my heart which is always a treacherous one. I took long three months to reach my destination. On 1st June 2014, Zenith Odysseys was born and became the center of my existence.

On 16th June, I attended a family function with Riki which turned out to be his last. I went for couple of other minor treks of Vairatgad and Pandavgad.

Now, it was time for launching Zenith Odysseys with her maiden trek to Kalsubai on June 21 2014.

Zenith's second trek was to Karnala which did not go that well. And as August barged in, I left for my heavenly travel to Ladakh, Date was 3 August 2014. I returned on 16 August only to repent my decision.

Ladakh Story Part I

Ladakh Story Part II

Ladakh Story Part III

Ladakh Story Part IV

Ladakh Fact File and Trivia bits

Riki passed away on 20th September.

Less than a month after this I went on with fulfilling another dream of Basic Mountaineering Course at Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, 13 Oct 2014.

Graduates of HMI BMC 304

On our way back from Base camp to the Institiute we spent a day in Yuksom. I met few of the Golden hearts here and have the confidence that this friendship will last all life long. I graduated as a Basic Mountaineer on 10 November 2014 and returned home on 13 November 2014 after spending sometime in Kolkata. By the time I returned, it was wedding season and two of my cousins, one each on either side ( maternal & paternal) were ready to get married. After all the chaos, I returned home on 5 December.

Flamingos at Bhigwan

I had spent so much of time outside that I felt as if I have moved to a new home. With all the changes happening in my life, I moved to my room after almost 4 years .

On 18 December, I along with few friends went to Bhigwan, Dont ask why, bird watching is not part of my life. This was followed by Trek to Kailasgad with my best people. This is so very much part of my life.

Now I am looking forward to the last weekend of the year with a party on rooftop with my cousins and a celebration of New Year with my close ones.

This year was really too good in terms of travelling & personal Growth. I fulfilled a lot of dreams and started dreaming a few new ones.

2015 onward, my trek and travel stories will be published Gypsy Princess and this blog will hold stories of my experiences.

When I was booking my tickets for travelling back home post BMC, I had realized I would be having fourteen hours in Kolkata between two trains. Right then I had decided to make best use of this time, but I hadn’t made any concrete plans.

Having been in Kolkata twice before this occasion, almost all the listed tourist spots were done for.  During the Basic Mountaineering Course, I had quick chats with some of the people who were citizens of Kolkata, but nothing fruitful had come up.

During the October stay in Kolkata before course, I and Vivek had visited Indian Museum and I hadn’t carried my camera inside for reasons unknown to me. So, I had another visit to the museum on my mind. But this definitely was not a full day activity.  Also, I wanted to spend some time alone, so I actually avoided rescheduling my tickets.

On the morning of November 10, 2014, the batch of BMC 304 graduated from Himalayan Mountaineering Institute.The photo session lasted for an hour or more. We bid adieu to each other by early evening. And I was on my way to New Jalpaigudi by 4 PM.

Since last few months, I have caught of disease of being punctual. Hence, there I was at NJP station waiting for the train to Kolkata which was delayed by an hour and half. Starting late meant reaching late, hence, the train delay had already cut off an hour and half from my time in Kolkata.

The train arrived in Kolkata at about 9 AM. I had slept well during the night but the tiredness from the course hadn’t gone. I was carrying a big backpack of some 20 kgs and I didn’t want to carry it all around in Kolkata. Hence, from Sealdah, I took a prepaid cab to Howrah Junction. I checked in my big backpack at the cloak room and carried the day pack. When I walked out of Howrah Junction, there was only one question on my mind... What Next?!?

After a brief thought I decided to head to the Indian Museum to take photos which I had missed during first visit. But the cab driver had different plans. He dropped me at Rabindra Sadan and gave me an opportunity to take my morning walk. During the walk, at Chowranghee, I came across the big food store of Haldiram’s and I recollected that I have tummy too. The time was well past 10:30, so a brunch was definitely called for. I ordered chhole Bhature which was really tummy full. I also checked out the mithai on their shelves and
noted that I should come back for the shopping before leaving the Metro.

From here I walked to Indian Museum. This time I made it a point to take my camera inside. The collection of historic exhibits at this museum is explicit and precious. Although, I am not an expert of history, I like visiting monuments and imagining how things would have been then.  Having visited the museum earlier, I knew which sections I wanted to visit and which ones I didn’t want to. When I finally walked out of the museum, time was 1:15 PM. I still had complete 8 hours before reporting at Howrah Junction for departure.

Meantime, facebook friends had poured suggestions on my question. One suggestion was to take a walk on college street. Knowing myself well, I had always avoided college street during all my visits. I didn’t want to spend away all my money on books and die hungry. Seeing the suggestion, I resolved to myself that I would not buy any book and just look around and started walked towards college street. When I asked for directions, people gave the directions and also suggested taking a cab. I had decided to walk. I walked and walked and then I saw a Tram! I always wanted to take that Tram ride. This was the Time of my life and I wanted to cash the opportunity and I got into the Tram. This was the best ride of my life.

When I got into the Tram, the conductor asked where I wanted to go, I said I don’t have any specific destination and he may charge me till the last station. He gave a ticket worth Rs. 5 and told me that I can get down anywhere I want.  The lady sitting next to me inquired what I was up to. During the chat she suggested getting down at BBD Bag and trying out some Kesar ras malai at K C Das opposite the station.  So my next destination was decided.



At K.C Das, the Kesar Ras Malai experience was not only delicious but also fulfilling as the people at K.C. Das were kind and thoughtful.  When I inquired at the sales  counter for directions to college street, the guy suggested taking the Tram from the station opposite the shop.





Now, I was experienced for Tram ride, the ticket was Rs. 5 and when I inquired how long it would take, the conductor snapped back, you should have lots of time if you want to go in the Tram. However, in 10 minutes, I was at College Street. Seeing so many book shops at one place, I felt as if I am in paradise and bankrupt by all means.  One of my colleagues messaged that College Street is Asia’s biggest books market. I walked here and there, browsed through shops.

I was thinking of buying newly released “Playing it my Way”, Sachin Tendulkar’s Autobiography, and suddenly I saw a hoarding, “Sri Aurobindo PathMandir”. I re-read to confirm. Yes, it was that place. All my thoughts vanished as I paced in trance towards the entrance.

The Entrance leads you to a staircase, the wall on left side holds the information of rooms inside the mandir and the wall on the right side bears the message from Sri Aurobindo. I was in trance when I climbed the steps. At the stilt floor, there is a counter for selling books. When I approached the lady at the counter she told me the books available were related only to Sri Aurobindo. I told her that was the exact reason why I was there. She seemed pleased with the reply and handed me a catalogue. I went through the catalogue and requested her to give me “The Life Divine”. She asked why I was buying that book. The bi-lingual conversation was getting interesting. I told her about my upbringing and schooling and shared the list of books on my cell phone. Seeing the name of this book on my list she was surprised.

When I was a kid, the renowned speaker Dr. Shivajirao Bhosale was holding lectures in town and there was a lecture on Sri Aurobindo and during the lecture he had given a few references from this book. Since then this book was on my list.

Me and Aunty chatted further and she told me that now a lot people don’t study Bangla and most of the education happens in English Medium Schools. The future of literature in Bangla language doesn’t seem bright. She also mentioned that she was glad to see me making efforts to learn Bangla. During the entire conversation she was speaking in Bangla and I was replying in Bangla supported by English.
When I was bidding adieu, she invited me to the PathMandir on my next visit to Kolkata. She also warned that I should get back to Howrah Junction before it gets lonely on the streets. I promised her that I will be safe.

When I came back on street, it was 4:30 PM and it had started getting dark. So I again took Tram to the station of origin. The conductor suggested getting down at Central Metro Station and taking the metro to Esplanade.

I re-visited Haldiram’s, ate huge Masala Dosa and purchased Rasgullas of three different flavours. They had six flavours on menu. When I looked at the range of sweets they were offering, I was left spellbound.
I asked a guy at the counter for instructions to Babu Ghat. He told me to take a city bus from the bus station opposite the shop. But crossing the street was a major task and like every time it was the task of the day! I succeeded after around 10 minutes.

The bus journey was fun as the conductor thought I was a non-resident Bangla woman and tried to chat with me.  Like the aunty at the sales counter at Sri Aurobindo Path Mandir the conversation continued. He wished me good luck when I got down at Babu Ghat bus station.

As it was long past sunset, I was expecting to see the lights of Howrah Bridge. However, when I got into the ferry, the Howrah Bridge was still dark and the illuminated Howrah Junction was looked fabulous on the opposite bank of Hoogly River.

The ferry ride is a quick 10 minutes affair. I waited at the jetty near Howrah Junction for the lights of Howrah Bridge for some time and made my way to Howrah Junction.

The trains to Pune usually depart from platforms at the new complex. I still had some 2 hours to spare hence I went to explore other platforms. The rush on the platforms meant for local trains suggested I should go and rest.

I made my way to New Complex’s upper class waiting room and rested for some time before getting into Azad Hind Express. 

Prayer Flags in Yoksum

Our training in Higher Himalayas came to an end. Our chief instructor - Lakpa Sir told us that they would be sending some people to Yuksom as advance party.

The people who usually walk slow were determined to be part of this party thus I was dead sure that they would nominate me to be part of this group. Therefore, on 5th November 2014, at early morning 19 students from BMC 304 & 50 - odd students from AMC - 172 left the base camp and marched towards Dzongri.

Me & Piyali

The first day's trek was the toughest task as it involved couple of steep climbs and the distance to be covered was 26 kms. Route was chalked as Base Camp at Chowri khang - Bikbari - Dzongri La - Dzongri - Devrali - Phedtang - Tshokha - Bakkhim. All we knew was Base Camp to Dzongri is 13 kms and Dzongri to Bakkhim is 13 kms. With a quick lunch & tea break at Dzongri, we proceeded to Bakkhim. When I and Piyali reached Bakkhim, it was already dark.

Rest House at Bakkhim

Next day, we had a target to reach Yuksom at the earliest so that we could visit this old capital of Sikkim more peacefully. Thus we started off at 6:15 and had to cover last 13 kms in lower Himalayas mostly through Kanchenjunga National Park.

We had been out of network grid for long enough and all of us were eager to share photos & other details with our near & dear ones. But apart from this, Room No. 8 members - Ela, Neha and I were more interested in visiting the Monasteries in Yuksom.

Lakpa sir had mentioned the folklore that 3 monks had flown in from Tibet and met at Yuksom and had suggested to the King that Yuksom should be his capital.

At a suspension bridge 

Somewhere in KNP

So, it was clear that Yuksom was also of historic importance. We hiked through Kanchenjunga National Park and crossed 4 suspension bridges and reached Bakkim by 11:30. Everyone was darn hungry by now and quartermaster sir informed us that we will have to arrange for our lunch as the kitchen staff hadn’t arrived by then.

Tent Pitching by Moromee and Debajit

There was a small homely restaurant behind our camp. All of us haunted the cute ladies for authentic MoMos and some Maggie. Also after a real long time, few of us quenched their thirst for coffee. We pitched tents, did basic cleaning of ourselves and rushed off in the town. Some of us wanted to rush to old monastery thus they took a shared taxi ride.

On our way, we saw few chortens but hunger led us to Gupta Restaurant. Five of us, Nisarg, Ela, Neha Moromee and I, literally drove the lady mad! We ordered almost everything on the menu and ate like buffalos. The lady & the waiters served us with smile...

Nisarg midst of prayer wheels

Later, we strolled through the town which is more or less of a village. First, we visited the monastery of 12 monks. There are 12 prayer wheels in this monastery and they represent each incarnation of Buddha. We circled the prayer wheels and took photos and moved ahead.

Neha, Nisarg, Ela,Me and Moromee at Karthok Monastery

Now, we made our way to a monastery within the town. This monastery was closed, but we peeped through windows. This was first monastery Nisarg had seen so he was excited. We left from here and started to walk back to camp. On our way we also saw the lake Karthok. We all wanted to sit by the lake but had to reach
the camp before fall in time of 5PM. Also it had already started getting dark by 4:30 PM. So it would have been right choice to head back to the camp.

However, we were only few to return on time and others came like couple of hours later. We chatted with quartermaster sir, who told us about local beer – HIT and the famous person from Yuksom – Danny Denzongpa, a bollywood actor. (He also showed the helipad and the actor's bungalow next morning.)

Meantime, the dinner was ready. We ate & were asleep by 8:30 PM as next day we were to head back to the Institute at Darjeeling.

Karthok Monastery

Picture Credits: Ashish Chanda, Moromee Das & few of my clicks.